WhenHub - Paris Haute Couture Fall Winter 2017-18

Paris Haute Couture Fall Winter 2017-18

The latest trends in fashion presented by top designers at the Paris Haute Couture Fall Winter 2017-18.

Ralph & Russo

2017-07-03
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Taking a breather from a world caught in thrall to digital, designer Tamara Ralph looked to master photographers like Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, and Norman Parkinson for her collection. It was a lavish display, with streams of opal and gold crystals, sequins, pearls, feathers, gold embroidery, and plissé organza flowers. “We wanted to have reminiscences of those times, but capture it in a modern way,” Ralph noted. “We wanted to do a collection that was very rich, that embodies our woman.” Clearly, the meticulously groomed front row clients—and they were legion—are going to bespoiled for choice.


The show opened with a few tailored cocktail looks, such as a crisp white suit or a one-shoulder black and silver tweed suit with jeweled buttons. But eveningwear is Ralph & Russo’s sweet spot, and the designers delivered options in a dizzying array of classic lines with lavish embellishments. A white organza dress with a cascade of crystal and ribbon woven hand-embroidery stood out, so did a tulle cocktail dress with metallic scalloping and crystal embroidery. A gown in illusion tulle seemed to be raining crystals. Another, in metallic sapphire lace, came veiled in tulle strewn with ostrich feathers.

That the show’s set design evoked a couture maison says a lot about what Ralph & Russo has been able to build in a relatively short time. And the designers are not stopping there: The couple will bow their ready-to-wear in Paris this October. At which point the choices may be even more head-spinning.

Atelier Versace

2017-07-02
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Three little words you never have and never will associate with Donatella Versace and the house of Versace: Less is more.


Versace’s update resulted in major, majorevening—a bravura performance of high-octane, super-sexy, and exquisitely and inventively worked looks, all bronze metallic scale embroideries, silver chains suspended in cobweb-like formations, and an embellishment that looked like crystal but which was actually beads faced with silver leaf. Eschewing the big production presentation afforded a chance to see the (rather incredible) handwork techniques close up. Not that everything was entirely handcrafted. A few pieces featured the first time the house had tried 3-D printing—an intricate scrolling neckline of a long gilded dress, and two snake-motif jeweled belts that encircled the waists of two dresses, one short and a miracle of sculpted pleats, the other an ultra-chic navy chiffon floor-length dress veiling a gleaming chain-mail body. Less is more but—this is Versace after all—more is more, too.

Giambattista Valli

2017-07-03
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Mood/style:

the filles-fleur of Giambattista Valli take the runway under the flower-adorned arches of the Petit Palais; they wear ballerina dresses in foamy tulle followed by long trains that sway creating a musical rustle. Perfect and delicate, they look like romantic dolls clad in dreamy chiffon, scattered with embroidered lace frills, flimsy in impalpable organza that the night breeze moves like a whisper 


Lengths:

short and knee-length dresses


Colors:

black, pink, lemon yellow, white, geranium red, camellia, opal, onyx, ivory, apricot 


Shapes:

short and straight embroidered lace dresses, ballerina dresses in embroidered organza, chiffon draped long dresses


Materials:

macramé, chiffon, faille, tulle, bouclé wool, broderie anglaise, organza


Accessories:

platform shoes with super-high heels, ballerina flats, high heel satin sandals


Armani Privé

2017-07-04
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Mood/style:

mysterious and elegantly dressed women take over the Armani Privè runway. They are clad in suits with fitted blazers, long bustier, slim skirts and veiled hats. “It is emotional and deeply introspective fashion. I thought about an imaginary woman, not a real one you might encounter on the street”, stated the designer a few hours ahead of the show. "I imagined a woman from another time, elegant and veiled with mystery”, added Armani. "Because couture nowadays is the search for a feeling, for allure and respect for all the women of the world”. Hence, Armani takes us on a journey through time and space where the Parisian Théâtre de Chaillot is transformed into the stuccoed and frescoed rooms of Milan’s Palazzo Orsini, the headquarters of Atelier Armani Privè. Walking solemnly amid nineteenth century trompe l’oeil furniture and paintings by Andrea Appiani, Armani’s precious couture creations make their appearance: embroideries are revealed from under the tulle, ribbons crafted from patent leather and crystals are fashioned into precious bouquets and the Armani Privè seal glimpses through the light organdie ruffles of evening gowns. A collection perfectly envisioned for red carpet appearances and that we will soon see worn by the likes of Naomi Watts, Kate Winslet and Sofia Loren sitting in the front row, admiring Made in Italy luxury as imagined by Giorgio Armani 

 

Lengths:

mostly long

 

Colours:

black, celadon green, fuchsia, gold, metal, blue

 

Materials:

tulle, velvet, organdie, silk, crocodile skin, patent leather, feathers, crystals, wool, cotton

 

Shapes:

tailored blazers are worn with loose trousers or straight skirts. For the evening – column and bustier dresses. Sequin-ornate T-shirts are styled over full, tulle bonded, A-line skirts

 

Accessories:

tulle boots. Veiled hats. Maxi hoop earrings. Gloves in tulle and sequins

Christian Dior

2017-07-03
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Mood/style:

the discovery of a map of the five continents – a work by etcher Albert Decaris, titled ‘Christian Dior in the world’ – led Maria Grazia Chiuri to celebrate the concept of travelling in terms of discovery of the world and of oneself. With this haute couture collection, which pays tribute to the fashion house’s 70th anniversary’, the creative director explores the Maison Dior’s archives in light of those codes that today as well as in the past are appreciated and loved by women from across the world. Chiuri’s women are explorers and adventurous heroines such as Amelia Earhart or Geltrude Bell who love to mix masculine clothing and ethnic details. Jumpsuits and tailored blazers and blousons styled with pleated culottes, long-line bustier pieces ornate with shading ruffles and chemisier dresses cinched at the waist by thin belts. A collection in which menswear traditional fabrics such as velvet, wool, tweed and felt are fashioned into ultra-feminine silhouettes, in which Monsieur Dior’s much loved colour – grey – is shown in a whole range of nuances connecting with all types of women since Dior Haute Couture is a dream with no boundaries – neither geographic, nor emotional

 

Lengths:

mostly long

 

Colours:

grey, red, pink, khaki

 

Materials:

wool, denim, tulle, silk, chiffon, flannel, velvet, tweed, shearling, feathers

 

Shapes:

suits have fitted blazers, long pleated skirts, bustier dresses

 

Accessories:

boots, men’s lace-up shoes, pumps and sandals in crocodile skin. Round-shaped sunglasses. Borsalino hats by Stephen Jones


Valentino

2017-07-05
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Mood/style:

Pierpaolo Piccioli is an experimenter. He never liked conventions and labelling and has always possessed a punk spirit that brought him to challenge the already seen and already done. On this occasion, Valentino’s Creative Director opted to intellectualize the very essence of High Fashion, whose value he does not deem to be visible at first sight. “The beauty of an haute couture creation will never reveal the amount of work and hours required to produce it”, said the designer a few hours ahead of the show. Thus, to Piccioli, high fashion is sacred in as much as it transcends reality. This is in fact the starting point for the designer’s complex and risky journey. Just like in the seventeenth century, painter Francisco de Zurbarán painted martyrs and saints in vibrant colours and rich brocades as opposed to his contemporary Caravaggio, today Piccioli subverts, juxtaposes, tears apart and re-assembles the garments creating harmony within contrasting shapes, fabrics and colours. The result is a summation in which, by way of almost elementary silhouettes, everything that seems ‘wrong’ is brought together in a new artificial order consisting of juxtapositions and a play of volumes and colours. Long-line, men’s shirts are worn with short tunics and lurex capes, a dress with train is in fact a patchwork of several types of lace and coloured feathers while a velvet number is made lighter thanks to cascading glass fringes. A collection that celebrates sacred and profane love, sacredness and vices that, at Valentino, become precious treasures chests, symbolic objects reasserting the bond between humankind and nature

 

Lengths:

mostly long

 

Colours:

black, white, blue, ochre, brown, fuchsia, pink, green, reddish purple and gold

 

Materials:

feathers, glass, wool, chiffon, linen, cotton, velvet, lace

 

Shapes:

a play of juxtapositions and layering of volumes that creates an elongated silhouette: slim shirts and ankle-length skirts, oversized or t-shirt style capes, A-line, tunics and train dresses

 

Accessories:

earring in gold and red agate. Bejewelled animal-shaped bags designed in collaboration with Harumi Klossowska de Rola. Leather boots

Guo Pei

2017-07-02
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There was no way that Guo Pei could outdo the epic proportions of last season’s Legends theme, which conjured up fantastical queens of this world and beyond. Today, she reined in that ceremonial splendor and concentrated on the legendary aspects of haute couture itself—silhouettes that expressed bygone glamour newly infused with intense levels of metallic luster and embellished shine. “That time, I wanted to express a feeling,” she explained postshow. “This time, it’s a lot simpler; it’s a tribute to the era of haute couture, when life was more beautiful and dresses were more beautiful, as well.” She manifested this nostalgia in a wide array of filmy floor-sweeping gowns, contoured fit-and-flare cocktail numbers, and seductress mermaid styles. Bodices fanned upward for added drama, and gilded embroideries retained a regal air. For all the radiance of her fabrics, there was more still in the Chopard gems; the haute joaillerie collaboration was overseen by Caroline Scheufele, the brand’s copresident and artistic director. Seeing the diamond drop earrings or emerald-studded necklaces perfectly matched with a Guo Pei design suddenly turned each look into an exceedingly expensive proposition. 

Elie Saab

2017-07-05
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Mood/style:

Elie Saab’s models look like medieval princesses or the female characters out of Games Of Thrones. For this haute couture Fall Winter 17-18 collection the Lebanese designer envisaged a brave and fierce queen clad in precious armors: long velvet gowns, richly embroidered jackets and A-line dresses scattered with sequins. A rich collection that would definitely be appreciated by Sansa Stark & Co.

 

Lengths:

long

 

Colors:

red, blue, pink, black, green, light blue

 

Materials:

organza, chiffon, gold thread, tulle, silk, satin, velvet, lace, fur

 

Shapes:

bustier dresses with A-line skirt, or crisscross front straight column dresses

 

Accessories:

bracelets, earrings, tiaras and necklaces with bronze and stones. Chain handle velvet bags. Ankle strap shoes and sandals 

Chanel

2017-07-04
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Mood/style:

Chanel’s quintessential style is revived in the latest Fall/Winter 17-18 Haute Couture collection. Karl Lagerfeld masterfully reinterprets the classic tweed suit – a true Chanel signature – and reimagines it in the form of coats with balloon sleeves, cropped jackets and long skirts. Despite its rigorous take, Chanel’s latest Haute Couture offering strikes a chord with every new look, culminating in a white-clad, fairy-tale bride replete with flowers and bows…a tribute to tradition – ça va sans dire – offered on this occasion in a chic and more modern version

 

Lengths:

short and long

 

Colours:

grey, reddish purple, black

 

Materials:

tweed, wool, cotton, silk, leather, bouclé, chiffon

 

Shapes:

coats with voluminous sleeves. Amphora-shaped skirts styled with cropped jackets. Pencils skirts teamed with long-line jackets. Straight or A-line evening gowns

 

Accessories:

thigh-high and ankle boots in vinyl. Slim brim hats. Pearl and onyx earrings

 

Antonio Grimaldi

2017-07-03
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Zuhair Murad

2017-07-05
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“She’s tall, beautiful, self-confident,” Zuhair Murad said, describing his impression of Charles Dana Gibson’s famous Gibson Girl illustrations from the 1890s. Funny, though, he may as well have been referring to his own feminine ideal. Compared to his last haute couture collection, which was a blitz of ’80s glitz, this offering came across as relatively restrained and romantic (needless to say, Murad’s creations remain seeped in opulence). His interpretations of fin de siècle silhouettes, Edwardian inflections, and Art Nouveau decoration meant that models assumed a more cultivated air—and if this sounds like a pretentious observation, at least it conveys his break with what came before. At the start, you see the black-and-white grouping benefiting from velvet, fluid beadwork, and high-contrast botanical embroidery. But he quickly moved on from this sharp register for a softer rollout of a muted palette, with diaphanous gowns covered in tonal surface detail—and all those nature motifs shone like diamonds (or, at least, extra-luminous crystal). His nude effect seemed even more finessed than usual; it was nearly impossible to spot where the illusion ended and the body began.

Viktor & Rolf

2017-07-05
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Mood/style:

a parade of action dolls descended upon Viktor & Rolf’s runway. The Dutch designer duo wrote the last chapter of a trilogy that started two seasons ago and presents a non-conventional haute couture collection that breaks apart, recycles and re-assembles V&R archive pieces. Iconic garments like jeans, T-shirts and bomber jackets are reinterpreted and transformed into an eco-friendly creative patchwork: bombers are turned into dresses, tops or coats. Bows are extra-large and ruffles are the common denominator of the whole collection, while coloured patterns are assembled into fresh collages or worked as embellishment on bleached denim. Once again, Viktor and Rolf offer their personal take on a type of high fashion that is becoming increasingly young, street style, casual and modern


Lengths:

various


Colours:

black, green, blue, orange 


Materials:

cotton, nylon, denim, wool


Shapes:

straight and A-line silhouettes crossed by ruffles and zippers 


Accessories:

leather biker boots. Woollen tights and gloves

Fendi

2017-07-05
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Mood/style:

The stage of the Champs-Élysées theatre turns into an enchanted garden inhabited by the romantic women of Fendi. For this Fall Winter 2017-18 haute collection Karl Lagerfeld presents a collection that emphasizes and celebrates fur, Fendi’s iconic material, and the skills of its artisanal ateliers. Mink, lynx, astrakhan, sable and fur turn into lace, sequins and intarsia, transforming fur into one of the most adaptable and fine materials. Post impressionist motifs handpainted on lamb and sable recreate dreamlike landscapes where feathers intertwine with embroidery and mink thread. A collection that celebrates ultimate luxury, combining tradition with modernity 

 

Lengths: 

above and below the knee

 

Colors:

brown, electric blue, red, blue

 

Materials:

mink, astrakhan, fur, sable, lynx, leather, suede, organza, silk 

 

Shapes:

ample capes. Long column or bustier dresses

 

Accessories:

suede mules. Leather bouquet bags

Jean Paul Gaultier

2017-07-05
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Mood/style:

tapping into his renowned tongue-in-cheek wit, Jean Paul Gaultier presents a collection worthy of the Fall/Winter 2017-18 wardrobe of the Snow Queen. Anna Winter, Santa Clothes, Igloo Igloo and Lady Gla Gla are only some of the looks making up Gaultier’s offering of enveloping knits, quilted coats and long evening saris, which confirm the designer’s irreverent spirit

 

Lengths:

above and below the knee

 

Colours:

blue, black, grey, gold, brown, white, ochre

 

Materials:

cotton, wool, knitwear, silk, leather, crystals, velvet, organdie, silk, sequins

 

Shapes:

kimono-shoulder jackets are worn with fluid trousers. Chunky knits are teamed with pencil skirts. Hooded jumpsuits and saris for the evening

 

Accessories:

fur boots. Sequin-embellished thigh-high boots. Wool and fur hats

 

Ulyana Sergeenko

2017-07-04
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Alexis Mabille

2017-07-04
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Maison Margiela

2017-07-02
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Mood/style:

John Galliano reworks the Maison Margiela house’s classic codes reclaiming their subversive value which, besides, his explosive and unconventional creativity seems to embrace effortlessly. The last survivor of a generation of great talents that will leave an indelible mark on contemporary fashion, Galliano revisits one of dearest concepts, that of 'glamour', upturning it, à la Margiela. And does so with his unrivaled visionary ability that never stops fascinating, inspiring and amazing, with astonishing results 


Lengths:

various


Colors:

a neutral palette with cobalt blue, black and gold accents


Shapes:

menswear staples like trench coats, crombies, car coats, peignoirs, Norwegian sweaters – are revisited in an imaginative way and mixed with the symbols of classic and super-feminine glamour: a touch of gold, a mouth outlined with red lipstick, the stitching on nylon stockings, pleats, bustiers, décolletages


Materials:

wool, leather and thick fabrics alternate with organza, chiffon, silks and tulle 


Accessories:

gold, white and cobalt blue cowboy boots


Schiaparelli

2017-07-03
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Mood/style:

Bertrand Guyon revisits the Schiaparelli look cleansing it of any excessively literal references while maintaining the classic surreal allusions shown here with subtle hand. Trompe-l’oeil lobsters and necklaces peek out discretely on jumpsuits and sheer bustier tops; Picasso-esque profiles square each other off from the lapels of a boxy blazer. The designer’s modern take is revealed in the long flowing dresses in draped chiffon where the lack of embellishment makes room for fluid, light and feminine lines


Lengths: 

short and ankle-length dresses


Colours:

ivory, alabaster, onyx, amethysts, cobalt blue, shocking pink, turquoise, gold


Shapes: 

various silhouettes: cropped straight dresses; long draped gowns in chiffon or bustier numbers fashioned from frothy tulle. Surrealist-inspired embellishments and embroideries 


Materials: 

faille, tulle, chiffon, organdie, georgette, velvet, wool, leather 


Accessories:

Plexiglas, high-heeled shoes with ankle laces; knee-high lace-up biker boots


Alexandre Vauthier

2017-07-04
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Alexandre Vauthier gave every indication that he enjoyed the process of reviving the excellence and exuberance of ’80s haute couture. “The idea is take the best from the past to advance forward,” he explained of his throwback glamour. So he toyed with asymmetric nipped-and-tucked volumes; treated draped colorful lamé like liquid metal; and turned necklines into grand canyons. But it wasn’t just about sexy special effects; the tuxedo jacket paired with city shorts, polka dot silk organza minidresses, and gauzy white shirts ruffled with extra flourish were simple ideas executed to peak Parisian panache and topped with a stylized fez. Vauthier put it best: “Excessivement chic.”

Iris van Herpen

2017-07-03
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Mood/style:

with her work, Iris van Herpen crosses the thin, challenging border between science and fashion; no other designer of her generation ever pushed so fearlessly into the unchartered territories of experimentation with equally astonishing results. Her creations are akin to the costumes worn by the creatures of a futuristic world and have little in common with the prosaic quality of traditional fashion collections. Each one of her shows is a performance, which avail itself of the collaboration of artists and musicians that are in line with Van Herpen’s vision. To celebrate the house’s tenth anniversary, the designer invited an extraordinary experimental music band from Denmark called 'Between Music', who plays and sings submerged in large water tanks. The perfect, eerily accompaniment to Van Herpen’s artistic work, which challenges conventions and the limits of the body


Lengths: 

calf length 


Colours:

white, silver, black 


Shapes:

flowing, airy, futuristic 


Materials:

technologically treated, flexible and malleable fibres 


Accessories:

high-heeled sandals 

A. F. Vandevorst

2017-07-02
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Of all the special materials displayed in A.F. Vandevorst’s show as a guest member on this season’s haute couture schedule, the recurrence of reworked garbage bags seemed particularly noteworthy. But lest anyone detect a disrespectful provocation, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx confirmed that their intention was precisely the opposite. “It’s about upgrading,” Vandevorst said. “The message was that you can use whatever as long as you’re working in a couture way.” And the way they formed the black plastic into a bodice and built it up into ruffled, tiered skirts, or else how it appeared as floral embroidery on a sweater, was pretty convincing. As in, whether or not the pieces end up being worn, the execution would have been the same had the material been lacquered organza or raffia. Moreover, by using local Antwerp garbage bags (the ones printed with rest, i.e., neither organic nor recyclable waste), A.F. Vandevorst was also acknowledging its home base, no matter whether the brand shows in Paris or, as it has most recently, London.